Backing
up can be a challenge for a lot of horses. Refusing to back
or doing so hesitantly, opening the mouth, rearing, or over-bridling
– all are ways that horses evade having to take a
few steps backwards. As with most training problems, figuring
out why the horse won’t back up is half the solution.
With
young horses, I usually teach the back from the ground.
On a halter, the horse should step back willingly when light
pressure is applied to the lead. Some horses will move back
from a gentle tug on the halter alone, others need to be
tapped on the chest or front legs. Tap just enough to irritate
the colt and give a verbal cue such as saying “back”
or clucking. Stop tapping and/or tugging immediately if
even a small step back is offered. Be patient, as it might
take the colt some time to figure out that he is supposed
to move. Starting with a step at a time and rewarding efforts
in the right direction should soon have the colt backing
on command.
Under
saddle, use a similar “ask and reward” approach.
Remember that a green colt is still figuring out how to
balance the weight of the rider, and try to set the colt
up for success. Trying to back the colt (or any horse) when
he is asleep with his weight shifted forward onto his front
legs is asking for resistance. One way to teach the back
is to walk the colt forward then ask for the stop. When
the colt halts, continue to apply a light pressure to the
reins in a give-and-take motion – and be patient.
The colt doesn’t know the back cue yet, but in his
attempt to relieve the pressure from the bit is likely to
take a step backwards. Immediately release the rein pressure
and reward the colt. Start with a step – or a half
a step – and build on that. Using light pressure keeps
the horse from leaning on the bit, or tossing his head.
Backing
problems are often caused by improper training. Yanking
on the reins will teach the horse to toss his head or rear.
Strong steady pulls will teach him to lean forward and bull
into the bit. Overuse of draw-reins or severe bits can get
the horse over-bridled, where he simply puts his chin on
his chest and stands there. These are all difficult problems
to fix, but start as you would with a green colt and try
teaching the back up on a light cue.
What
about older, trained horses who suddenly refuse to back?
As with any sudden change of behavior, look for physical
problems first. Horses with sore hocks or stifles, or with
back problems, will often refuse to back up as it requires
the horse to lift his back and move with his hind legs under
him. Sometimes problems that don’t show up at the
forward gaits will be very apparent when backing. Watch
for uneven steps, or curving when backing up to indicate
that the horse is uncomfortable. A bad tooth, or an uncomfortable
bit can also create trouble.
For
competition horses in nearly every event, a quality back
up is a must. When backing your horse for the judge, remember
to give the horse a ready signal (so that he isn’t
asleep with his weight forward) and to give as light a cue
as you do at home. The horse that moves back lightly and
swiftly, the one who backs straight and clean, can be the
difference between that first place ribbon and somewhere
in the pack.
Doris Eraldi of Eraldi Training in Potter Valley specializes
in Pleasure horses and Equitation riders. She can be contacted
at 707-743-1337, or by e-mail dyan@eraldi.net.
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